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Submarine Store - Frequently asked questions.


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Frequently Asked Model Questions

What are your models made of?
How long are the models?

What skill level is required to build these models?

What tools do I need?

What type of paint should I use?

What is that piece that runs down the length of the keel on the resin kits?
Do the model kits come with a base and display cover?
I have a question that isn't covered in the Model FAQ.

Q. What are your models made of? [Top]
A. Our
resin models are made of the highest quality molded resin and absolutely true to scale. Our finished models are on display in places such as museums and congressional offices, and have even appeared as backdrops in Hollywood movies. Our plastic models are molded in precise detail by the world's leading manufacturers of plastic models.

Q. How long are the models? [Top]
A.
This, of course, varies from model to model. Here's how to determine the length of the finished model:

  1. We clearly identify the model scale for each of our models. Determine the scale of the model you want to purchase;

  2. Multiply the length (LOA) of the real boat by 12 and divide by the scale.

    For example, we would calculate the length of a finished Benjamin Franklin Class SSBN Model like this:

    • LOA of a Benjamin Franklin Class SSBN = 425 ft.

    • Model scale = 1:350

The result (14.57) is in inches.

This tells us that the finished model of a Franklin Class SSBN will be approximately 14.57 inches long.

Q. What skill level is required to build these models? [Top]
A. The resin kits require a minimum of assembly (periscopes, planes, screw, etc.). However, we do not recommend our kits as the first undertaking for those who have never built a model before.  Having said that, if you have some modeling experience with either plastic or resin models and the ability to use your hands for close work, you should do just fine.

The plastic kits vary in complexity and are better for less experienced modelers. They generally have a larger quantity of parts but require less fine finishing of the individual pieces prior to assembly. You should have the ability to use your hands for close work and an attention to detail.

Q. What tools do I need? [Top]
A.
For the resin kits, you will need sandpaper and maybe a sanding block and/or small half-round wood file to remove the spine along the keel. For all kits, tweezers are helpful in handling the small parts and an Exacto or similar modeling knife for trimming small parts. Cyanoacrylate glue (Super Glue or equivalent) is recommended for assembling the resin kits. Regular model cement is recommended for the plastic kits. You will also want paint brushes and paint.

Q. What type of paint should I use? [Top]
A.
Floquil is the recommended paint brand for resin kits and Testors model paint for the plastic kits. Both are available at modeling supply stores.

Before painting you should wipe down the model with a cloth dampened with alcohol or paint thinner to remove any sanding dust and/or mold release compound.

Recommended Paint Schemes:

  • For Cold War era boats, you'll be using all black for combat configuration or black & red lead for builder's configuration.

  • For a WW2 boats, you'll want a couple of shades of flat gray for the superstructure (boats often employed a mottled paint scheme for camouflage) and black for the tanks.

When the instruction say Dull Black, use  Flat Black.
When the instruction say Anti-fouling Red, use Boxcar Red (flat if available)
When the instruction say Non-skid Black use Semi-gloss Black.

After painting, you may want to consider overspraying with a clear matte lacquer, but consult at the model supply from which you purchased the hull paint to ensure that you have lacquer that is compatible with the paint you've chosen.

Q. What is that piece that runs down the length of the keel on the resin kits? [Top]
A. You will find this on virtually all small-scale resin models. It is called the spine and it is leftover from the molding process.

Remove the spine with a coping saw, wood file, sanding block, etc. When you get it almost flush to the hull, switch to 400 grit or finer paper.

Tip: If you plan to mount your model to a display base using stanchions to elevate it - before you sand the spine completely flush with the hull, use it as a keel reference line to drill holes for your mounting stanchions. It will be a lot easier to get the holes properly aligned.

Q. Do the model kits come with display base & cover? [Top]
A. No. However, you can purchase the display bases and covers (as well as kit modifications such as dry deck shelters and name plates) from our Model Accessories page.

Q. I have a question that isn't covered in the Model FAQ. What do I do? [Top]
A. Send your question to info@submarinestore.com and we'll do our best to assist you.

 

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